Changjiang

On Hainan’s west coast, Changjiang offers an alternative to Sanya’s lively atmosphere. Its coastline and tropical rainforest retain much of their natural character, and visitors can also explore Li culture. A trip here can combine beaches, forested mountains and villages.

• Qizi Bay: Listed among Hainan’s ten most beautiful bays, Qizi Bay is free to visit. It has three sections: Dajiao, Zhongjiao and Xiaojiao. At Dajiao, follow Tonghai Road to the sea to see the cactus-lined coast. Zhongjiao is good for exploring the shore at low tide and collecting shells, while Xiaojiao is a good choice for sunset views.

• Bawangling: Set in the heart of Hainan’s tropical rainforest, Bawangling is home to rare black-crested gibbons. Start with the Qingdao Trail, which passes Yajia Waterfall. If you have enough stamina, consider the Badao Trail as well. Admission is about 48 yuan.

• Huangdi Cave: This natural karst cave contains stalactites in many shapes. Its cool interior is a good setting for cave photography. Outside, rolling mountains and kapok trees create a rustic, natural landscape.

• Shayutang Village: The Mushroom House featured in the TV show *Back to Field* was filmed here, and the village still retains a simple, everyday atmosphere. The nearby Colorful Island No. 7 Road and coastal tidal flats are both good spots for photos.

• Lihuali, Wangxia Township: Known as “China’s Foremost Li Township,” this area is a good place to learn about well-preserved Li traditions. Visit Sanpai Village to see its walls of Li-themed murals, then head to Hongshui Village to see its pyramid-shaped thatched houses and traditional village layout.

• Shilu Iron Mine National Mining Park: Converted from a mining area once known as “Asia’s richest iron ore mine,” the park preserves a huge open pit and a century of industrial remains. Admission is free. It is a good place to learn about industrial history and photograph mining landscapes.

• Haiwei National Wetland Park: One of western Hainan’s wetland birdwatching spots, this park is home to flocks of egrets. It is worth considering for visitors interested in nature or photography. Admission is about 10 yuan per person.

Suggested 4-Day, 3-Night Itinerary

• Day 1: Arrive in Changjiang and explore the coast
  • After arriving in Changjiang in the afternoon, head to Dajiao Park at Qizi Bay. Walk along Tonghai Road to see the cactus-lined coast.
  • In the early evening, continue to Xiaojiao Park to watch the sunset over the fishing harbor. Have seafood nearby for dinner, or return to the county town to try Wulie suckling goat.
• Day 2: Hike in the rainforest and visit Li villages
  • Spend the morning hiking in Bawangling, enjoying the fresh rainforest air and keeping an eye out for signs of gibbons.
  • In the afternoon, drive to Lihuali in Wangxia Township to learn about Li culture. Stay overnight in a guesthouse converted from a thatched house and enjoy the quiet village setting.
• Day 3: Explore a cave and wander through a village
  • Visit Huangdi Cave in the morning to see and photograph its formations. Bringing a flashlight is recommended.
  • In the afternoon, head to Shayutang Village. Take photos around the Mushroom House and the colorful road, explore the filming locations from *Back to Field*, and enjoy a slower pace.
• Day 4: Discover industrial history and prepare to leave
  • Visit Shilu Iron Mine National Mining Park in the morning to see its century-old industrial remains.
  • In the afternoon, visit Changjiang Museum to learn about Li and Miao folk traditions. Alternatively, stop at the county town’s night market before leaving to browse and sample local snacks.

Local Food in Changjiang

• Wulie Suckling Goat: A signature local dish, often served poached and sliced. The skin is springy, with a milky aroma and little gaminess. Try it at Sande Authentic Young Goat Restaurant or Jinshuiqiao Restaurant.

• Bawangling Mountain Chicken: Named for its ability to climb trees, this chicken has firm meat. It can be stir-fried with wild betel leaves or served poached and sliced.
• Changhua Brackish-Water Duck: Raised free-range around brackish fishponds, these ducks have crisp skin and flavorful meat, with a distinctive taste shaped by their coastal rearing environment.
• Changhua River Fish: Salt-baked with lemongrass, this dish has tender flesh and highlights the natural sweetness of river fish.
• Li-Style Bamboo-Tube Rice: Shanlan rice is packed into bamboo tubes and cooked over charcoal, giving it a bamboo fragrance. It is easy to find at street stalls and costs about 10–20 yuan per serving.

• Haiwei Sugarcane Shrimp: Fresh shrimp paste is wrapped around sections of sugarcane and deep-fried. Crisp outside and tender inside, it combines the sweetness of shrimp with the light fragrance of sugarcane.
• Seafood Sweet Potato Starch Soup: Made with sweet potato starch, fresh fish and shrimp, this lightly sweet, savory soup is a popular street snack in Changjiang.

Accommodation and Transport

• Where to stay: For sea views and sunsets, consider Kaiyuan Resort or Xixili Haisu near Qizi Bay. Both offer pleasant surroundings and convenient sunset viewing. For a taste of Li village life, consider Lishe Shiguangli in Wangxia Township. For value and access to everyday amenities, stay in Shilu, the county town, which is also a convenient base for visiting the sights.
• Getting around: Attractions are spread out, so driving yourself or hiring a car with a driver makes it easier to connect stops and pull over for photos along the way. If arriving by high-speed train, get off at Qiziwan Station or Changjiang Station, then rent a car or take a taxi to your destination. Electric scooters are another option for short trips within the county, with rentals costing about 30–60 yuan per day.

Travel Tips

• When to visit: November to March is generally a good time to visit, avoiding the rainy season and the hottest weather. Kapok flowers bloom in February and March. Good viewing spots include the Kapok Flower Viewing Wharf on the Changhua River and the Wulie Changjiang Kapok Flower Viewing Trail.
• Sun and insect protection: UV levels are strong, so bring SPF50+ sunscreen, a sun hat and sunglasses. Bawangling, Wangxia Township and other densely vegetated areas call for plenty of insect repellent.
• Exploring the shore at low tide: If you plan to look for crabs at Zhongjiao in Qizi Bay or in Xiantian Village, check the tide tables first and time your visit for low tide.
• Driving on mountain roads: The roads to Huangdi Cave and Wangxia Township have many bends. Bring motion sickness medicine if needed. Ideally, the driver should have experience on mountain roads, and you should aim to leave the mountains before dark.
• What to pack: From October to December, mornings and evenings in Changjiang are usually a few degrees cooler than in Haikou and Sanya, so carry a light jacket. The coast can also be windy at night, so bring enough clothing to stay warm.