Haixi

Haixi has large temperature swings between day and night, so pack windproof, warm clothing.

Haixi Prefecture in Qinghai Province covers a vast area dotted with salt lakes, yardang formations, Gobi desert and snow-capped mountains. It is also a major destination on the Qinghai–Gansu Grand Loop. The guide below outlines how to travel between towns and scenic areas, with advice on landscapes, route planning and preparation.

• Da Qaidam Emerald Lake: Salt ponds scattered across the Gobi range from Tiffany blue to emerald green, with snow-capped mountains reflected in the water. Drone photography, the sightseeing train and viewing platforms offer different perspectives on the ponds’ shapes and colors.

• Mangya Emerald Lake: Compared with Da Qaidam Emerald Lake, this lake feels more remote and wild, with emerald water set against distant snow-capped mountains. Vehicles selling coffee and ice cream are stationed at Lake No. 3, while Lake No. 1 is a good place to observe the water’s layers of color.

• Heidu Mountain: Black mountains contrast sharply with the white, sandy Gobi, earning it the nickname “the most moonlike place on Earth.” Low-angle light in the early morning and evening brings out contrasts reminiscent of an ink-wash painting. Red, white or black clothing works well for portraits.

• Chaka Salt Lake: Famous for its “Mirror of the Sky” scenery, the lake is more likely to produce clear reflections in calm conditions in the early morning or evening. Take the vintage-style sightseeing train toward the middle of the lake. Bright red or pure white long dresses work well for portraits against the salt lake.

• Wusute Water Yardang: Turquoise water surrounds yardang mounds, making them look like a stone circle rising from the water when seen from afar. Climb to Wanghai Viewing Platform for an overview of the interlocking water and earthen formations, or use drone photography to capture the landscape as a whole.

• Qarhan Salt Lake: China’s largest salt lake has distinctly apple-green water, with colors that stand out most in clear weather. The Wanzhang Salt Bridge is another feature worth seeing.

Suggested 5–7-Day Self-Drive or Private-Car Itinerary

Haixi’s attractions are far apart, so driving yourself or hiring a car with a driver makes the journey easier to organize. The following route links the main stops in a loop to reduce backtracking.

• Day 1: Arrive in Xining and focus on resting and adjusting to the altitude. Try skillet-cooked lamb or yak hot pot, and stay overnight in Xining.
• Day 2: Leave Xining and stop at a quieter viewing platform overlooking Qinghai Lake, then head to Chaka Salt Lake to photograph the reflections. Continue to Delingha and stay in the city center.
• Day 3: Travel from Delingha to the U-shaped stretch of the G315 highway. Pay attention to traffic safety and do not stand in the middle of the road. Continue to Da Qaidam Emerald Lake for sunset, then stay overnight in Da Qaidam Town.
• Day 4: Travel from Da Qaidam via Nanbaxian Yardang to Wusute Water Yardang. Watch the sunset before continuing to Mangya City, and stay overnight in Mangya Town.
• Day 5: Set out from Mangya to visit Mangya Emerald Lake and Aiken Spring. Aiken Spring’s “Devil’s Eye” shape is best captured from above with a drone. Continue to Lenghu Town for the night.
• Day 6: Leave Lenghu and first visit Heidu Mountain to photograph its ink-wash-like landscape. Then explore the Oil Town, a filming location for *Chronicles of the Ghostly Tribe*, before continuing to Dunhuang. Stay in central Dunhuang and visit the night market in the evening.
• Day 7: Visit Dunhuang’s Mogao Caves and the Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Lake, then end the trip and begin your return journey.

Transport and Travel Tips

• Self-driving: This is a good way to explore Haixi, with flexibility to adjust your itinerary. Major local roads are generally in good condition, but the G315 national highway has strict average-speed enforcement. Some side routes, including Mars Highway No. 1 and routes around Eboliang, are unpaved gravel roads. An SUV is preferable; if driving a sedan, assess road conditions carefully before proceeding.
• Private or shared car with a driver: Both are options for travelers who do not plan to drive. When booking a private car, check whether the price includes the driver’s meals and accommodation. Choose your own restaurants where possible to avoid being taken to overpriced establishments.
• Public transport: Most attractions lie in uninhabited areas without direct public transport. It is difficult to complete this itinerary using public transport alone.

Accommodation and Food Guide

• Da Qaidam Town: Close to Emerald Lake, the town has a reasonably good range of everyday services. Book accommodation ahead during the June–September peak season. You may also want to look for hotels with an oxygen lounge or oxygen-supply equipment.

• Mangya Town: A useful base for visiting Mangya Emerald Lake and Aiken Spring. Accommodation is fairly basic, so check guest reviews before booking.

• Lenghu Town: A less common overnight stop for travelers. The local Mars Camp offers space-capsule accommodation, though prices are relatively high.

• Golmud City: The city has well-developed services and a wider choice of restaurants and accommodation. In the evening, head to the Stadium Night Market for yak hot pot and grilled lamb.
• Local food: Besides skillet-cooked lamb, options include hand-pulled lamb, Qinghai-style traditional hot pot, thick yak yogurt, ga mianpian noodle pieces and Qinghai salt ice cream.

Clothing and What to Pack

• Clothing: Bright red, burgundy or pure white long dresses contrast well with the blue-and-white salt lake scenery, but keep warm when you are not taking photos. Carry a windproof jacket or down jacket. Daytime and nighttime temperatures differ considerably, and temperatures can fall to around 0°C in the early morning and evening.
• Sun protection: Pack SPF50+ sunscreen, polarized sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat. UV radiation is strong at high altitude, and salt lake water reflects sunlight, so sun protection matters even for short periods outdoors.
• Other items: Moisturizing lip balm and hand cream can help in the dry conditions. Transparent shoe covers are required in salt lake areas where entering the water is permitted; do not enter barefoot. You can also bring an insulated flask, high-energy snacks and a portable oxygen canister.

Travel Risks and Safety

• Adjusting to the altitude: Haixi’s average elevation is about 3,000 meters. Avoid strenuous running when you first arrive, and wait until you have adjusted before washing your hair or showering. If packing glucose, ibuprofen or similar supplies, first understand when they are appropriate, and do not treat them as a substitute for measures to prevent altitude sickness.
• Protecting the landscape: Heidu Mountain’s black surface and the salt crusts of the lakes are fragile. Do not climb without permission, walk into closed areas or take stones away. Violations may result in penalties.
• Changing weather: Weather in northwestern China can change quickly, and you may encounter sandstorms along the way. If winds exceed force 6, stop taking photos or lingering and promptly return along the boardwalk to the pickup point.
• Driving preparation: Roads through uninhabited areas are long, and the repetitive scenery can cause fatigue. Sharing the driving between two people is advisable. Fuel stations are sparse, so fill up whenever you come across one. Some stretches have no mobile signal; download offline maps before setting out.
• Choosing a Chaka Salt Lake scenic area: “Mirror of the Sky” is the older scenic area, focused on photography and sightseeing. “Sky No. 1” is the newer area, suitable for families interested in floating experiences. Choose one according to your interests; there is no need to visit both.